The Tourist Route

It turned out that the B&B where we spent the last night is run by a lady who has a degree in physics. We spoke for quite a while and got on very well indeed. After covering the subjects of dog ownership, travelling solo, sexism, Brexit, and different education systems, it was time for me to leave.

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Gorse from up close.

Today, the weather fulfilled the expectations a lot better than it had in recent days and was decidedly more Scottish in its fickleness and inconstancy. This made for some great pictures of the scenery though.

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The little town of Lochcarron.

When I drove to the accommodation yesterday, I did not notice how attractive this region is. I must have been tired and my mind set on having a rest. After a good night’s sleep, I had a new perspective on things and was amazed at the beauty of Loch Carron (and the fact that I had missed it last night).

I had read about the very scenic drive to Glenelg from where you could see Skye again and made my way towards it. However, it took me a lot longer to get away from Loch Carron than I had thought, as I stopped every five minutes to take yet another picture.

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Near Attadale, on Loch Carron. Note the railway tracks running parallel to the road.
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A view back on Lochcarron from the other side of the Loch.
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A few scattered houses on Loch Carron’s shores. Including a rainbow!

This trip led me back the same way I had come yesterday. Before the road to Glenelg takes you round Loch Duich, you pass Eilean Donan Castle. According to my guide book, this is probably the most photographed castle in Scotland.

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You’ve not been to Scotland until you’ve seen Eilean Donan Castle!

Aramis was less impressed with Eilean Donan than I was, but kindly agreed to pose for me nonetheless.

From here it was not too far to Glenelg. At the parking spot where I took the picture below I met a lovely elderly English couple. They tried to convince me to go back to Skye and have a look at Elgol (which I now know everything about – I was even shown last year’s pictures of their vacation there). For politeness’ sake I assured them that I would consider the option (which I dutifully did. For about half a second) and then, to their great disappointment, decided against it.

They too, just like my landlady this morning, ‘absolutely hated’ Brexit and thought it was a daft idea to leave the EU. Interesting. This is not the first time I have wondered where all these Leavers could be hiding…

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Loch Duich from a parking spot on the ascent towards Glenelg.

As we moved inland, the landscape became a lot more rugged again. I just could not stop staring at the bleakness of these mountains.

I am told that high season for tourists has just started, but the amount of drivers going at 30 mph on 60 mph roads, slowing riiiiight down before every bend so as to almost come to a complete halt is already unpleasantly high. Too high, in fact. No wonder there’s a growing number, as I heard on the radio today, of knife crimes in this country.

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Loch Loyne in the distance.
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Roadtrippin’.
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Loch Loyne.

After this first bit of driving I needed a break and found us a nice spot on the shores of Loch Oich, which I, unforgivably, mistook for Loch Lochy at first. Aramis didn’t mind and had a lot of fun nonetheless.

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Step 1: Identify the object of desire.

 

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Step 2: Approach the object of desire in an elegant and determined manner.

 

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Steps 3 & 4: Retrieve object of desire and celebrate accordingly.

After the carefully documented rollage and barkage above I decided that it was time for the One and Only, the Most Scottish Loch Of All: Loch Ness. We drove a little further than Fort Augustus and stopped at a place where we could enjoy this most mysterious of Scottish waters all by ourselves.

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Loch Ness.
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Spot the monster.

We turned around and headed towards Fort William, admired the roads lined with pine trees and marvelled at Ben Nevis.

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Pine tree lining.
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Mountain range near Ben Nevis.

The weather would now turn dramatically within minutes, sometimes only seconds. It is on a day like this that you appreciate why hiking in Scotland can be very dangerous.

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Loch Linnhe.
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More of the same, taken just seconds after the picture above.

We continued towards Glencoe and took a short break at the top of this historic pass.

Aramis experienced a runner’s high here, which he was allowed to work off at his heart’s content.

At about half 4 we reached Crianlarich where we are staying for the night. Tomorrow we will take a look at Loch Lomond and then travel onwards to Edinburgh.

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